The engine has finally been drained of oil. But it took time. Since the engine was leaking I couldn't fire it up to get the oil warm so had to drain the central reservoir whilst sat in a cold engine room. Yeah, it took a while. Add to the fact there isn't a big sump plug you can whip out and bleed, it all has to come through the small sampling tap at the bottom of the sight glass.

The central oil tank which needed to be removed in order to get access to the injector housings. The junction between the sight glass and the reservoir needs attention as it is loose. It may require welding but until I get it apart I won't know for sure. It could be PTFE tape to the rescue.

Anyway, after much perching on my backside on the old toolbox in the engine room (and having left it overnight) the oil was drained down and all the air and oil lines which caged the reservoir in were removed I was able to remove the tank to get at the injectors. Surprisingly it came out quite easily which revealed the primary offenders of leaking water...

The 2 central injectors which came out surprisingly quickly. The one on the left (the rear cylinder) seemed to be a very soft silicon type rubber with no external metal retaining ring. I am surprised it had only just started leaking. The other had been leaking for some time and had been getting progressively worse, to the point where I would not have been happy travelling any distance whatsoever in case of total failure and possible engine room flooding, which is generally to be avoided.

The injectors also seemed to come out pretty easily.The gasket/bushes which sealed against the water jacket were in pretty bad shape and one was completely missing its outer retaining copper jacket. Trying to find replacement bushes was another story.

Initially I went to a custom gasket company but they gave me the brush off, another came up with an injection mould plan which was the thick end of £500 (bear in mind I only need 4 bushes plus a few spares). Many emails and phone conversations later I have managed to find a company able to provide the right size but I am doubling up on the spacers since they are only 5mm thick and I need 10mm. They are roughly the right density at about 70A Shore (roughly trainer sole density) so should provide a good seal. I am hoping to get my hands on some 38mm OD 306 or 316 Stainless pipe and get it lathed into 12mm rings as bush retainers (thanks Foppy). It turns out neoprene is the most suitable material for the bush in that it comes in roughly the right 'squishiness' and is resistant to heat, salt water and oils.

At the bottom of the cylinders there has obviously been corrosion after the time spent with the drip drip of fresh and then (worse) the salt water. For this reason I will be adding an additional freshwater flush system for the engine so it isn't left sitting with salt water in the jacket. A quick run over with a hand wire brush and some Vactan should stop the corrosion going any further and I will look for some decent paint to cover it. A recent chance conversation highlighted the use of clutch and brake cleaner as a very powerful degreaser, so with the engine slightly deconstructed I will carry out some basic degreasing, cleaning and painting where I can.

It may seem 'arse about face' to be working on the engine while the cargo bay still needs so much work, but the masts need removing and in order to shuffle the barge delicately around the marina without flooding the engine bay I thought it would be wise to get ahead on some of the mechanicals. I should have the quotes for the stainless lift plates in the next couple of days and once agreed should be with me in about a week or so. De-rigging Zee is going to be harder than herding cats though - I have mapped out all the wires etc but at some point I will have to put on my big boy pants and go up in the Bosun's chair and take down the VHF aerials, disconnect the floodlights and steaming lights. I will be looking for a safety harness and fall arrestor or, failing that, a sh%t load of mattresses...

My friendly carpenter has been in touch and should hopefully be popping over in January to have a look at the wheelhouse to discuss the best way to construct it. In the meantime I need to do some maths and work out what angle of dangle I can get on the stairs from the wheelhouse if I remove the current mizzen mast steel bracing and replace slightly higher in the superstructure.

If there is one thing you have got to do when you are doing a renovation like this when there are no ready made answers is to learn how to research and get on the phone to talk to people who know what they are talking about. I know more about injection moulding, neoprene, rubber hardness scales than any normal person should, but am sure it will come in handy at some point. I have a little black book of useful numbers which I am sure I can sell for a princely sum to someone doing the same in the future... Maybe.

The engine doing its best impersonation of a Morris Dancer.